What is high-quality Dancong?

The quality of Dancong tea varies greatly, which is ultimately reflected in the wide range of prices. On Taobao, some sell for less than 100RMB per 500 gram with free shipping, while others reach a million RMB per 500 gram and are still highly sought after.

So, what defines good quality Dancong tea?

1. Factors Affecting the Quality of Dancong Tea

There are two main aspects: the quality of the tea leaves themselves and the processing techniques. Among these, the former is the decisive factor because high-quality tea leaves are matched with the best production processes, with no room for carelessness. Conversely, tea of lesser quality is often produced in bulk using machines instead of being handcrafted — not because of a lack of skill but because superior craftsmanship cannot transform poor-quality tea leaves into high-quality tea.

What, then, influences the quality of the tea leaves? The primary factor lies in the inherent varietal characteristics of the tea plant. For example, the Ya Shi Xiang (Duck Shit fragrance) variety cannot produce Rou Gui (Cinnamon) fragrance, nor can Mi Lan Xiang (Honey Orchid fragrance) suddenly be transformed into Huang Zhi Xiang (Gardenia fragrance) during processing. Of course, this does not apply to blended teas.

Besides the varietal-driven characteristics, other factors also affect the tea’s quality, such as the geographical location of the tea trees, including elevation, soil, and slope, along with the age of the tea bushes.

(1) Geographical Characteristics and Elevation

The most critical factor here is elevation. The saying "High mountains and thick mist yield good tea" is not unfounded. **In the high-elevation Phoenix Mountain region, persistent fog, high humidity, and rich soil humus all foster ideal conditions for tea tree growth. Overall, **tea trees benefit from slower growth, longer lifespans, and higher accumulation of polyphenols and aromatic compounds.

According to research by Tang Hao(唐颢) et al., the polyphenol content and aromatic compounds (alcohols, olefins, aldehydes, alkanes, esters, etc.) in Dancong tea are strongly positively correlated with elevation. Interestingly, although polyphenol content increases with elevation, catechins — the component responsible for bitterness in tea — decrease as elevation increases.

Thus, Dancong tea from high altitudes exhibits characteristics of intense aroma, durability through multiple infusions, strong sweetness (回甘), and a lack of bitterness. This trait is often described by Chaozhou locals as possessing “mountain charm” (山韵).

However, higher doesn't always mean better. Extreme elevations, where temperatures can drop below freezing, may harm the tea trees. Therefore, optimal altitudes are key.

So, what elevation qualifies as "high mountain"? Anyone familiar with Dancong tea would have heard of “Wudong Dancong.” Wudong Mountain(乌岽山) is the second-highest peak of Phoenix Mountain, with a summit elevation of 1,391 meters. The nearby Wudong Village sits at an altitude of 985 to 1,100 meters and boasts outstanding tea-growing conditions, including over 900 years of tea cultivation history and numerous ancient tea trees over a century old. The Dancong tea produced here, commonly referred to as "Wudong Dancong," is synonymous with premium quality. Naturally, it commands a high price, typically starting at thousands of yuan per jin, with no upper limit. If you find "Wudong Dancong" online for just 100 yuan per jin with free shipping, well… there’s only buyer error, not seller error.

Apart from elevation, factors such as soil acidity and nutrient content, slope orientation, terrain, diurnal temperature variation, and rainfall also influence tea quality. For example, Wudong Mountain, nourished by the waters of the Tianchi Lake(天池), features high humidity that ensures tea leaves remain tender, with a dense mountain aroma and honeyed sweetness. Meanwhile, Daizhao Mountain(待诏山) (aka Dazhi Mountain（大质山）, characterized by granitic red soil rich in minerals and trace elements, fosters exceptional tea-growing environments — such as Shiguping Village(石古坪村), whose soil contains significant granitic content, endowing tea with bold citrusy floral-fruity and minerally metallic notes.

The list of factors affecting quality is long, and it’s generally difficult for consumers to comprehensively understand the growth characteristics of the tea they buy. Therefore, it’s sufficient to remember the principle that "High mountains and thick mist yield good tea."

(2) Age of the Tea Bushes

Another distinguishing feature of high-mountain tea is the favorable growing environment, which means tea bushes generally live longer. As such, high-mountain tea is often sourced from "old bushes." This type of tea not only carries mountain charm but also has “bush flavor” (cong wei), which is directly influenced by bush age.

“Bush age” refers to the tree’s age. In Phoenix Mountain, tea bushes aged 50 years or more — even over 100 years — are considered "old bushes." Tea aficionados commonly associate old bush tea with “bush flavor.”

What exactly is “bush flavor”? Some tea enthusiasts describe it as a subtle mossy taste due to moss growing on old trees, while others attribute it to the woodiness imparted by aged trees.

Admittedly, these descriptions may sound mystical. In scientific terms, it’s better to analyze bush age's impact on tea quality by examining the relationship between tree age and the compounds dissolved in the tea.

Research shows that the effect of tree age on tea quality varies since tea tree lifespans differ by type. However, generally speaking, **as long as a tea tree has not entered its decline phase, the older the tree, the higher the tea quality.** This is because older trees have deeper and stronger root systems, enabling them to access a wider range of nutrients. Moreover, as tree trunks thicken with age, their ability to store nutrients improves, resulting in richer flavors.

Because Dancong trees tend to live long, they enter their decline phase relatively late. Within a price range accessible to regular consumers, the tea tree's age typically correlates positively with quality.

(3) Harvesting and Processing

Earlier, we discussed the six major steps in Dancong tea production, so you should already understand each step’s role. Conversely, mishandling any step could significantly impact the final tea quality.

For instance, tea is generally not harvested in rainy weather. Yet, during prolonged spring rains, rising temperatures may accelerate leaf maturation, potentially missing the optimal harvest window. If this occurs, farmers may resort to harvesting in the rain, producing "rain tea," which is far inferior to tea harvested under ideal conditions.

Farmers often say, “Sun creates aroma, fire creates color.” The first half refers to the role of sunlight exposure during the fermentation process in developing aroma. But what happens if leaves are harvested under overcast conditions? Poor-quality Dancong tea on the market usually originates from such circumstances, where leaves overrun their peak timing.

In summary, the production of high-quality Dancong tea depends on the harmony of natural conditions, geographical advantages, and human effort — any imbalance could compromise quality. If you come across a good tea, savor it and cherish it.

2. How to Identify Quality Dancong Tea

This is essential knowledge for selecting premium Dancong tea. When buying tea from traditional offline sources, most purchases don’t occur immediately. Instead, you’re invited to sit down, sample a few infusions, and then decide after comparing different options.

At this point, don’t just rely on written descriptions; you can gain a direct understanding of the tea through its dry leaves, infusion color, aroma, flavor, and spent leaves. Here’s a method taught by tea expert Ye Hanzhong, which can be applied not only in-store but also at home after you purchase tea online.

To evaluate a tea’s quality, brew it three times using a standard gaiwan. The dosage and steeping times differ slightly from everyday gongfu tea brewing. Here’s how:

Observe dry leaves and measure dosage: Inspect the dry leaves before steeping. Use about 4g of leaves.

First infusion: Brew with a gaiwan. Skim off the foam after steeping for 1 minute. Focus on smelling the warm lid aroma, observing the liquor’s color, and evaluating the flavor.

Second infusion: Steep for 1.5 minutes. Focus on flavor again, sniffing the aroma, and observing liquor color.

Third infusion: Steep for 2 minutes. Judge the "charm" (mountain charm) and aroma by combining hot, warm, and cold scent assessments.

Inspect spent leaves and cup residue: Smell the cup and spent leaves to evaluate the aroma and observe the spent leaves' shape.

A good Dancong tea meets the following standards:

Dry leaves: Leaves should have tight, glossy strands and appear clean and pure. Low-mountain tea often has coarse stems, large leaves, and lacks a glossy finish. High-mountain tea is generally tight, uniform, and lustrous.

Aroma: The aroma should be rich, sharp, and persistent. Significant aroma typically emerges after the second or even third infusion, though in some cases, aroma fades by the third infusion. Compare aroma through repeated assessments—hot, warm, and cold—and combine short sniffs with long inhalations (to gauge depth and persistence).

Flavor: The flavor should be strong, pure, and refreshing, with noticeable mountain charm and bush flavor.

Liquor color: Color varies by cultivar but should generally be bright golden yellow. Those finished with light roasting may appear pale yellow, while heavier roasting may yield orange-yellow.

Spent leaves: Leaves should be soft, vibrant, uniform, and, for Dancong, exhibit the characteristic "green belly and red edges." Shui Xian (Water Fairy) often lacks the red edges.

Of course, relying on written descriptions can feel abstract. The truth is, there’s no shortcut — you must drink, observe, and sample widely to learn, identifying differences in tea quality through comparative experience.