The Naming and Aroma Types of Dancong
Fenghuang Dancong, because it is picked and processed from single trees, is sometimes individually named, making its naming methods very complex.
Some are named after the characteristics of the tea tree. For example, there are those named after the tree’s shape, such as Dacong Tea (大丛茶, Big Bush Tea), Nian Zai San (娘仔伞, Young Lady’s Parasol), and Yu San Tea (雨伞茶,Umbrella Tea).
Others are named after the shape of the leaves, such as Jian Ye Zai (尖叶仔,Pointed Leaf Sapling), Tuan Shu Ye (团树叶, Cluster Leaf), and You Ye (柚叶, Pomelo Leaf).
Still others are based on the leaf color, such as Da Wu Ye (大乌叶,Big Dark Leaf), Wu Ye Zai (乌叶仔, Small Dark Leaf), and Da Bai Ye (大白叶, Big White Leaf).
Some are named after the location of the tea tree, such as Shi Gu Nei (石古内, Stone Ancient Within) and Ao Fu Hou(凹富后).
Others are named after the tea growers, such as Hou Zhong (猴种), Zhong Han Zhong (忠汉种), and Li Min Zhong (立民种).
In some cases, they are named after stories and legends, such as Ba Xian (八仙 Eight Immortals), Lao Xian Weng (老仙翁, Old Immortal), Song Cha (宋茶, Song Tea), Xiong Di Zai (兄弟仔, Little Brothers), and Zong Suo Jia (棕蓑挟, Palm Raincoat Bearer).
The Dancong varieties we are most familiar with are primarily named based on their fragrance and flavor, such as Huang Zhi Xiang (黄栀香, Yellow Gardenia Fragrance), Zhi Lan Xiang (芝兰香, Iris Orchid Fragrance), Yu Lan Xiang (玉兰香, Magnolia Fragrance), Mi Lan Xiang (蜜兰香, Honey Orchid Fragrance), Xing Ren Xiang (杏仁香, Almond Fragrance), Tao Ren Xiang (桃仁香, Peach Kernel Fragrance), and Rou Gui Xiang (肉桂香, Cinnamon Fragrance).
At times, even these names are insufficient! What then? This has led to composite naming conventions, such as Zhong Han Zhong Huang Zhi Xiang(忠汉种黄栀香), Bai Ye Huang Zhi Xiang(白叶黄栀香), Zhu Ye Zhi Lan Xiang(竹叶芝兰香), and Po Tou Ye Lai Xiang(坡头夜来香) etc.
For instance, the "Illustrated Guide to Fenghuang Dancong Tea" 《中国凤凰单丛茶图谱》published by the Fenghuang Town Government includes 213 representative Dancong tea trees, each with a distinct name. And this is just an overview; there are many famed tea trees not included in the guide. In the Fenghuang tea-growing area, there are currently 3,500 tea trees that are over 200 years old, not to mention the countless tea trees spread across nearly 30,000 acres of tea fields.
So how should we approach understanding the naming and aroma types of Dancong teas? Because Dancong is a highly aromatic type of tea, renowned for its fragrance, aroma is the primary method for differentiation, making categorization by aroma both common and logical. In this section, we mainly reference the research of Mr. Huang Boxian(黄柏梓) on 5,120 Dancong tea trees, combined with the findings of the 1996 "Fenghuang Tea Tree Resource Survey Project Group" and the ten common aroma types frequently mentioned, to briefly introduce the typical classifications for Dancong tea.
Based on the diagram above, we can roughly understand the classic aroma types of Fenghuang Dancong, which are mainly divided into natural floral aromas, fruity aromas, and herbal aromas. Many other aroma types are categorized under miscellaneous aromas. Among the ten aroma types commonly discussed, most fall within the floral and herbal aroma categories.
Of course, the aforementioned classifications are not officially defined; they are more of a general summary by enthusiasts or experts. In some books or literature, the classifications may vary slightly. For example, Mr. Huang Boxian categorizes Ginger Aroma as a medicinal aroma, while the "Illustrated Guide to Fenghuang Dancong Tea" classifies it as Ginger Flower Aroma, belonging to the floral aroma category. Even the definition of the ten aroma categories for Dancong tea can differ, meaning these classifications are only quick reference frameworks and should not be regarded as definitive groupings.
However, differences in classification methods do not hinder the introduction of classic aroma-types of Dancong. Below is a brief overview of a few aroma types that are commonly encountered. Each aroma type, in addition to being named directly after its scent, also includes certain famed Dancong trees named after history or legends, which are also grouped under these aroma categories. A short description of their origins and taste is provided for each.
1. Huang Zhi Xiang-Yellow Gardenia Aroma
High-quality Shuixian tea with the natural fragrance of gardenia flowers is called Huang Zhi Xiang(黄栀香, Yellow Gardenia Aroma). Over time, its name evolved to become Huang Zhi Xiang (黄枝香, Yellow Branch Aroma). Huang Zhi Xiang is the most extensive and diverse category of Dancong tea. Besides the commonly encountered Huang Zhi Xiang Dancong, notable examples include Song Zhong(宋种), Lao Xian Weng(老仙翁), Dongfang Hong(东方红, Easten Red), and Ao Fu Hou(凹富后).
(1) Song Zhong Huang Zhi Xiang (宋种)
Practically every book introducing Dancong aroma types begins with Song Zhong Huang Zhi Xiang, also known as Wudong Song Cha(乌岽宋茶) or Song Tea No. 1(宋茶1号). This is an ancient sexually propagated tea variety with a tree age of about 600 years, located in Lizi Ping Village, Wudong(乌岽李仔坪村), at an altitude of 1,150 meters. Known for its high yield, this tea tree was renamed "Dongfang Hong" (The East Is Red) during the Great Leap Forward, but its production plummeted after being damaged by an individual with a mental illness in 1987.
This tea can be considered a legendary Dancong tea tree. In 2014 and 2015, the finished tea from this tree was priced at **one million RMB per jin (500 grams)**. Yes, you read that right—**one jin, one million RMB**.
After 1990, tea farmers propagated its shoots by grafting onto other varieties or strains, ensuring the preservation and continued development of Song Zhong Huang Zhi Xiang.
(2) Lao Xian Weng (老仙翁)
Also classified as Huang Zhi Xiang, this tea is named Lao Xian Weng (老仙翁,Old Immortal) due to the tree's age and the high fragrance of its finished tea, which rivals that of Ba Xian (八仙,Eight Immortals) tea. The mother tree is located at an altitude of 1,100 meters in Lizi Ping Village, Wudong(乌岽李仔坪村), with a tree age exceeding 400 years. However, in recent years, its yield has declined. In an attempt to save the tree, the surrounding rocks were excavated to protect its roots, but this caused root damage, and the mother tree died in 2006. The Lao Xian Weng tea available on the market today comes from seedlings, cuttings, or grafts from the original tree.
This tea’s fragrance is high and long-lasting, with a golden yellow, bright liquor color, rich and refreshing taste, and a strong aftertaste, with a distinct mountain charm.
(3) Dongfang Hong No.2 (东方红2号)
As previously mentioned, Song Zhong Huang Zhi Xiang was called Dongfang Hong (东方红, The East Is Red) or Song Tea(宋茶) due to its high yield during the Great Leap Forward. Dongfang Hong No.2 was grown from the seeds of Song Tea and is even considered to have higher quality than its mother tree. This tea infusion has a natural gardenia fragrance, is rich in taste, fresh and sweet, with a deep flavor characteristic of old trees, a strong aftertaste, and durability during infusion.
(4) Ao Fu Hou (凹富后)
Named for being situated behind a depression (Ao Fu Hou, 凹富后), the mother tree is over 150 years old and belongs to the sexually propagated Shuixian(水仙) variety. This tea is classified as a famous Dancong and old tree category. It carries a yellow gardenia floral aroma, with clear and high fragrance, bright orange-yellow liquor, sweet and refreshing taste, and durability during brewing.
2. Zhi Lan Xiang-Orchid Aroma
Zhilan Floral Aroma Type tea has a natural orchid fragrance and is one of the major aroma types within Dancong teas. Aside from the commonly encountered Zhi Lan Xiang Dancong, the renowned Ba Xian Guo Hai(八仙过海, Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea) and Ba Xian (八仙) also belong to this category.
The name Ba Xian Guo Hai(Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea) originates from the history of this tea variety. According to legend, in 1898, a tea farmer from Liziping Village in Wudong(乌岽村李仔坪村) brought back branches of the large-leaf Wuye Dancong from Yaliao Village (仔寮村), now renamed Yahou Village(垭后村) and propagated them through cuttings. Out of these, eight trees survived and retained the excellent traits of the mother tree. Hence, they were called Qv Zi Liao Zhong(去仔寮种) but people later likened these eight trees to the Eight Immortals, each displaying extraordinary qualities, ultimately renaming the tea Ba Xian Guo Hai(Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea) after the Liberation. Later, it was simply shortened to "Ba Xian." The Ba Xian Dancong on the market today is propagated from these eight mother trees.
This tea emits a orchid aroma, has a unique charm, and possesses a mellow, sweet, and refreshing taste. It is known for being highly durable across multiple brews and is cherished by seasoned tea enthusiasts. Its rich and identifiable fragrance is intense and long-lasting. Professor Dai Suxian(戴素贤), in her research on the aroma components of Zhilan fragrance, identified its six most abundant aromatic compounds, such as nerolidol, linalool, and cis-jasmone, all of which contribute natural floral scents. Due to the uniform boiling points of these substances, the aroma is both dense and enduring. Professor Dai described it as having a "sky-reaching fragrance," highlighting its unrivaled aromatic intensity.
3. Mi Lan Xing-Honey Orchid Aroma
This tea is named “Honey Orchid” because the finished tea has an obvious honey sweetness coupled with an orchid floral fragrance. The mother tree of this variety perished in 1978, at an age of 450 years. The current Honey Orchid Dancong is primarily propagated from the offspring of that original tree through asexual reproduction.
Honey Orchid aroma has gained fame as it is often the first tea people are introduced to within Dancong varieties. Due to its superior genetics, large-scale planting across Feng Huang villages began around 1996. With vast planting areas and high yield per unit area, it has become the most commonly encountered Dancong tea. However, despite being a high-mountain tea like Wudong Honey Orchid(乌岽蜜兰), its wider cultivation means that it is less expensive than other aroma types of similar altitudes.
On the other hand, its tea broth carries a noticeable honey sweetness and smooth entry, making it easily accessible for those new to Dancong teas. This fragrance type is well-received by the market.
Honey Orchid Dancong features a rich honey taste and orchid aroma. Its fragrance is high-pitched and full-bodied, the tea liquor exhibits a bright orange-yellow hue, and the flavor is thick, fresh, and enduring with a notable aftertaste. Additionally, it is highly durable across multiple infusions and boasts a strong mountain character, making it one of the best entry-level Dancong teas.
4. Yu Lan Xiang-Magnolia Aroma Type
Named after the Yu Lan Flower (玉兰花,magnolia flower) due to its distinctive fragrance, this tea differs from the robust flavor of other Dancong types by belonging to the lighter and more elegant category. The tea liquor is yellow, neither bitter nor astringent, and light yet flavorful. **Its fragrance is pronounced yet delicate like orchids, exuding an air of grace.** Using the word "elegance" to describe its flavor feels perfectly befitting.
This tea also goes by another name, Li Min Zhong(立民种) because it was propagated through cuttings in 1961. It was later discovered by villager Wei Limin(魏立民), who noted the tea tree’s unique growth characteristics, robust bud production, and high quality. He further propagated and cultivated it. Yulan Magnolialike Dancong can produce high-fragrance teas even when planted in low-elevation areas, and its progeny subsequently spread across the village, leading it to be called Li Min Zhong(立民种).
This tea’s liquor has a natural magnolia fragrance that is delicate, ethereal, and lasting. The tea presents a bright light-yellow hue and offers a mellow taste.
5. Ya Shi Xiang(Yin Hua Xiang)-Duck Shit Aroma(Silver Flower Aroma)
Few people may recognize Yin Hua Aroma(银花香, Silver Flower Aroma), but almost anyone familiar with Dancong teas knows the term Ya Shi Xiang(鸭屎香, Duck Shit Aroma.) That’s right—Silver Flower Aroma is Duck Shit Aroma.
The name “Duck Shit Aroma” comes from a rather unrefined story. Reportedly, the renowned tea tree from Kengtou Village(坑头村) in Feng Xi Ping(凤溪坪) was introduced by villager Wei Chunshe(魏春色) from Wudong(乌岽村). When first planted, it was grown in “Duck Shit Soil” (a type of yellow sandy soil). The tea leaves, despite having excellent flavor and aroma, attracted inquiries from other villagers. Wei Chunshe, fearing others would learn the true variety and propagate it, casually called it “Duck Shit Aroma.” Nevertheless, the variety could not escape being propagated, as its cuttings were eventually stolen and widely grafted, quickly spreading throughout Feng Huang Town.
The name “Duck Shit Aroma” persisted until 2012, when tea farmers, experts, and scholars, deeming the name inelegant, renamed it “Silver Flower Aroma(银花香)” due to its similarity to the scent of honeysuckle flowers(金银花).
For those unaware of its history, hearing the name might make one skeptical about associating it with high-quality Dancong tea. However, understanding the story gives the humorous name a certain charm. Some even believe that renaming it to “Silver Flower Aroma” deprives it of distinctiveness.
This tea features a natural honeysuckle fragrance that is intense and enduring. The tea liquor, bright orange-yellow, has a unique and long-lasting flavor, quick aftertaste, and strong mountain essence. It is widely loved and cultivated, making it another great introductory choice among Dancong teas.
6. Rou Gui(Cinnamon Aroma)
This type is named for its cinnamon-like fragrance in the tea liquor. I believe it stands out from other aroma types in two key aspects: its particularly rich body and exceptional durability across multiple infusions.
These traits are attributed to the high content of soluble substances and tea polyphenols, which are key to a tea’s ability to endure repeated brewing. Its main aromatic compound, nerolidol, and high-boiling point aromatic substances ensure that its scent is intense, long-lasting, and sweet.
Cinnamon Aroma Type is also characterized by an intense and noticeable aftertaste. However, achieving this requires skilled brewing techniques. Due to its high tea polyphenol content, the first few infusions should use fast water-out times to prevent excessive polyphenol extraction, which may otherwise lead to bitterness and astringency. For subsequent infusions, the steeping time can be gradually increased. When brewed correctly, Cinnamon Aroma Dancong produces a tea liquor with intense cinnamon fragrance, full-bodied sweetness, and significant aftertaste that often holds up for over thirty infusions. This method of **starting fast and ending slow** applies to most Dancong varieties but is especially crucial for this type.
For newcomers to Dancong tea, Cinnamon Aroma may not be immediately appealing due to its slight bitterness. However, mastering the proper brewing method will reveal its unique richness and distinctive aftertaste, making it a favorite among specific tea enthusiasts. Its main aromatic compound, nerolidol, is similar to that of Fujian oolong, meaning those who enjoy rock tea are also likely to appreciate this variety.
7. Jiang Hua Xiang (Ginger Flower Aroma)
This variety was historically called Jiang Hua (Ginger Flower) Aroma, Jiang Mu Aroma and later Tong Tian Aroma. It derives its name from its light ginger flower fragrance and a slight spiciness in the tea liquor reminiscent of fresh ginger. Jiang Hua Xiang, Jiang Mu Xiang, Tong Tian Xiang all belong to this category, which is one of the more precious varieties of Dancong.
The name "Tongtian" (literally “Sky-Piercing”) reflects this tea’s intensely high fragrance. When brewed, the clear and rich aroma spreads throughout the room, earning it this moniker.
This tea features a distinct natural ginger flower fragrance, bright golden-yellow liquor, subtle sweetness balanced with a hint of ginger spiciness, and a strong mountain essence. It is a highly recognizable and esteemed variety of Dancong tea.
8. Xing Ren Xiang(Almond Aroma)
The Xing Ren Xiang(Almond Aroma) Type belongs to the herbal fragrance category and is one of its larger subtypes. It is named for its almond-like aroma and flavor. In addition to Almond Aroma Dancong, teas like Ju Duo Zai(锯朵仔) and Tao Ren Xiang (Peach Kernel Aroma) are also classified under this category.
Peach Kernel Aroma is self-explanatory—it carries the scent and flavor of peach kernel. But what about Ju Duo Zai(锯朵仔)? This tea is named for its leaves, which feature sharp and deep serrations resembling a saw. Despite its distinctive leaf shape, it is categorized within the Almond Aroma family due to its strong almond fragrance and flavor, with pronounced aftertaste and refreshing characteristics that appeal to tea enthusiasts. It is commonly encountered in many tea shops.
9. Lao Cong Shui Xian (Old Bush Shui Xian)
The commonly mentioned “Laocong Shuixian” (老丛水仙, Old Bush Shuixian) does not technically fall under Dancong tea varieties. As mentioned earlier, it belongs to the Shuixian family’s grading system and is generally regarded as lower in quality compared to Dancong. This is because Shuixian teas, despite undergoing the wave-green process, fail to develop Dancong’s complex, high-pitched fragrance. As a result, Shuixian teas typically skip the wave-green process altogether. Consequently, the tea bases do not display the “green base with red edges” fermentation feature seen in Dancong.
So why is it mentioned here? Because it has unique qualities of its own. High-quality Fenghuang Shuixian trees are typically old bushes, often a century or even centuries old. These trees, with their deep root systems and slow growth in high mountain clouds, possess unique mountain characters and complex bush-like flavors.
Since Shuixian teas do not undergo wave-green processing, they have higher tea polyphenol content but also tend to taste overly bitter and astringent. During the final baking stage, they are roasted with a heavier fire than Dancong to reduce tea polyphenol content appropriately and to enhance richness and mellow qualities.
Light-to-medium roast Shuixian teas risk turning green or devolving into unpleasant flavors over time. After intense roasting, Shuixian teas are aged for at least six months or longer. Allowing the aromatic compounds to volatilize appropriately while also making the tea more mellow, this process is called annealing. This principle is the same as the roasted Wuyi rock tea that requires storage for annealing, and the Fenghuang Shuixian tea aged for many years is generally referred to as aged Shuixian.
The previously mentioned technique of thorough roasting for tea serves two purposes: first, to reduce the polyphenol content; second, to prevent Shui Xian tea from turning green again during the aging process. High-quality aged Shui Xian tea, after being stored for a period of time, produces a tea liquor that is smooth and mellow, with a restrained and steady aroma. Its flavor is rich, with a strong aftertaste and a profound "cong" (clump) character. It is highly enduring to repeated brews and is a favorite among many seasoned tea lovers. For first-time tasters, it’s best to slightly reduce the amount of tea leaves used to avoid the tea liquor becoming overly bitter or astringent.
10. Dancong Black Tea
Dancong black tea is a new variety that has emerged in recent years. Tea enthusiasts discovered that the growing environments of Dancong, Yunnan black tea (Dianhong), and Yingde black tea (Yinghong) are similar, as they are all located near the Tropic of Cancer with high temperatures, strong sunlight, and heavy rainfall. Their tea polyphenol contents are also quite similar. The difference, however, lies in the aromatic compounds. Compared to Yunnan and Yinghong black tea, Dancong tea has a richer and more diverse aroma. **By using fresh Dancong tea leaves as raw material and processing them with black tea techniques, the resulting tea is called Dancong black tea.**
Since black tea processing differs from that of oolong tea, with black tea undergoing deeper fermentation, Dancong black tea has lower tea polyphenol, caffeine, and amino acid content compared to Dancong oolong tea. Instead, it contains more oxidized products derived from the fermentation of tea polyphenols, such as theaflavins and thearubigins. In terms of aromatic compounds, there are also differences. Dancong oolong tea emphasizes strong floral aromas, while Dancong black tea offers a purer and longer-lasting honeyed floral fragrance.
For those who find Dancong tea too intense—such as beginners who worry about insomnia or stomach discomfort from drinking too much—but are still drawn to the vibrant fragrance of Dancong, Dancong black tea could be a good alternative.
There are slight differences in brewing as well. Black tea is brewed at a temperature of around 95°C, which is slightly higher than that of Dancong or Shuixian . The steeping time can also be extended slightly.