Characteristics of Dancong
What distinguishes Dancong tea from other teas, or from other oolong teas? Its primary characteristics are its resilience to multiple infusions, strong aftertaste, and prominent aroma.
1. Resilience to Multiple Infusions
The resilience to multiple infusions is straightforward to understand. According to the Chaozhou Gongfu tea(潮州工夫茶) brewing method, one infusion yields three cups of tea, and this is called one steeping. For Anxi Tieguanyin, it is said that "there is still fragrance after seven steepings," meaning that even after seven steeps, there is lingering tea flavor and aroma. Dancong tea, however, can often endure over fifteen infusions, and some particularly resilient varieties can even reach twenty or thirty infusions or more.
This characteristic is actually inherited from its precursor, Hongyin tea(红茵茶). Dancong tea contains a high water-soluble extract content—over 40% in most cases—which is relatively high among all teas. Thus, Dancong and even Shuixian teas tend to taste rich and endure multiple infusions. Notably, some varieties with polyphenol content above 30%, such as Rou Gui Xiang (肉桂香,Cinnamon Aroma) and Tong Tian Xiang (通天香,Heavenly Aroma), have a robust flavor and exceptional resilience, maintaining fragrance even after more than twenty steepings.
2. Strong Aftertaste
The aftertaste of Dancong tea is very pronounced, particularly in tea made from older tea trees in high mountain areas.
What exactly is aftertaste? According to the national standard for "Terminology for Sensory Evaluation of Tea," 《茶叶感官审评术语》it is defined as "**a sweet sensation and a moist feeling in the throat and root of the tongue after drinking tea.**" This means that this aftertaste is not immediately perceived but is a sensation that arises later in the throat and root of the tongue, hence the term "returning sweetness."
Why does aftertaste occur? From a scientific perspective, scholars believe it originates from astringency. Polyphenols in tea leaves combine with protein to form a watertight film-like structure in the mouth and saliva, causing astringency as local muscles in the mouth contract.
However, if the polyphenol content is well-balanced, the water film formed has an appropriate thickness—just one or two molecular layers—which can break easily. The contracted muscles then start to relax, converting the astringency into sweetness. Sensory and tactile cells in the mouth then interact with compounds in the tea, including amino acids such as theanine, glutamic acid, and glycine (which contribute to umami and sweetness), as well as soluble sugars like maltose and fructose, which lead to a sensation of sweetness and moistness in the throat and the base of the tongue. This is the mechanism behind aftertaste.
In short, aftertaste is essentially a process that transitions from bitterness or astringency to sweetness. The effectiveness of this phenomenon depends on the levels of polyphenols, amino acids, and total sugars in the tea. So why does Dancong have a particularly strong aftertaste?
Dancong is derived from Hongyin tea, which contains very high levels of polyphenols and alkaloids, especially catechins and caffeine. Even discarded tea dust from Hongyin is used as a raw material to extract caffeine. While Dancong contains slightly lower levels of polyphenols compared to Hongyin, it still retains the majority of the precursor’s characteristics, making it one of the most polyphenol-rich consumer teas. As previously mentioned, polyphenols are a critical factor affecting aftertaste.
The polyphenol content referred to here specifically applies to fresh leaves. As these fresh leaves are processed into finished tea, various steps like hydrolysis, oxidation, isomerization, and polymerization create additional compounds. Generally, the higher the degree of fermentation, the lower the polyphenol content in the final tea. Over-fermented tea often lacks aftertaste, while under-fermented tea retains a persistent bitterness. Only properly crafted Dancong tea can reach an ideal balance of polyphenols and deliver a strong aftertaste.
Polyphenols can be further categorized for more detailed analysis. For example, catechins are the primary components of polyphenols and are the main cause of bitterness and astringency. However, certain oxidized forms of tea polyphenols can combine with caffeine to form complex compounds that contribute to a fresh, pleasant flavor. Thus, high-quality Dancong tea generally exhibits a high total polyphenol content, while its catechin levels remain relatively low—a trait characteristic of older or mature tea trees.
In addition to the composition of tea, brewing techniques significantly influence the degree of aftertaste. This is why Dancong tea is typically brewed using specialized Gongfu brewing methods. Particular attention is paid to the first few infusions: the process should be continuous and timely, with quick water entry and exit, to prevent an excessive release of polyphenols.
Many people mistakenly find Dancong tea overly bitter or astringent not because of the tea's quality but because improper brewing methods cause excessive polyphenol extraction.We will discuss specific brewing methods in the last section.
3. Prominent Aroma
Another defining feature of Dancong tea is its prominent aroma, often described as having a natural floral fragrance, earning it the nickname "the perfume of tea." Because Dancong tea is harvested and processed from single tea trees, each tree can exhibit a distinct aromatic profile. There are currently ten general aroma categories for Dancong, each containing multiple individual varieties.
The tea's aroma originates from its scent compounds. Over 700 such compounds have been identified in tea, typically falling into categories such as alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, esters, phenols, and their derivatives, as well as heterocyclic compounds. Variations in the content of these scent compounds impact the unique aroma of tea. For example, terpene derivatives such as linalool and geraniol, as well as sesquiterpenes like nerolidol, are associated with sweet floral and woody scents. These are key contributors to the bouquet-like aroma of oolong tea.
The distribution of these aromatic compounds affects not just the specific scent but also how long the aroma lasts. High concentrations of high-boiling-point aromatic alcohols, such as linalool, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethanol, enhance the intensity and longevity of aromas, even producing a subtle fragrance when the tea cools down. In contrast, higher levels of low-boiling-point non-terpenoid alcohols result in grassy notes.
Where do these scent compounds come from? Aside from the inherent properties of fresh leaves, the tea-making process greatly influences the final aroma profile. For instance, the "kill-green" step eliminates low-volatility grassy compounds, leaving behind more stable high-boiling-point compounds. High temperatures also trigger Strecker degradation of amino acids and Maillard reactions, resulting in caramel-like or roasted aromas through the formation of pyrazines and pyrroles. Similarly, different processes, like steaming instead of pan-firing, preserve more grassy compounds like cis-3-hexenol, enhancing green and fresh notes.
Dancong tea belongs to the oolong category and is characterized by unique oolong processing techniques, including withering in sunlight, shaking/stretching, and light fermentation, (摇青、浪青、碰青)all of which enhance its floral and fruity aromas.
Specific to Fenghuang Dancong, research conducted in 1996 by Professor Dai Suxian(戴素贤)'s team identified 104 aroma compounds in Fenghuang Dancong, including abundant alcohols, aldehydes, and hydrocarbons, with over 20 compounds in each category. Some Dancong teas, such as Baxian(八仙), Rou Gui Xiang(肉桂香), Gui Hua Xiang(桂花香), Huang Zhi Xiang(黄栀香), Yu Lan Xiang(玉兰香), Zhi Lan Xiang(芝兰香), and Mi Lan Xiang(蜜兰香), have exceptionally complex aromatic profiles, each containing over 40 distinct compounds, making them high-aroma teas.
Each aromatic profile also has a corresponding set of dominant compounds. For instance, Rou Gui Xiang (肉桂香,Cinnamon Aroma) features high levels of nerolidol, indole, and phytol, resulting in sweet, rich, and robust aromas with a pronounced mountain character. Yu Lan Xiang (玉兰香,Magnolia Aroma) is dominated by farnesol, phytol, and indole, offering fresh and elegant floral notes. Huang Zhi Xiang (黄栀香, Gardenia Aroma) contains large amounts of cis-jasmone, linalool, and farnesol, giving it a lasting and intense gardenia fragrance. Baxian (八仙, Eight Immortals) contains high levels of cis-jasmone, indole, linalool, and their oxidized forms, yielding a sharp, rich, and distinctive floral aroma.
This wide variation in aroma profiles is not just a matter of perception; unique scent compounds provide each Dancong aroma with distinct characteristics, making it uniquely identifiable. While beginners might find it challenging to recognize these differences immediately, with time and experience, exploring the diverse and complex aromas of Dancong tea becomes a highly enjoyable pursuit.